A humble attempt to document life and all its eccentricities
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
So a beach bum isn't the same thing as an actual bum...right?
If only winter was like this everywhere. I mean sure, it's awesome to have to bundle up in a heavy coat, gloves, hat, scarf, and boots anytime you want to go outside in the Midwest, but I think I'd rather just go to the beach. Oh, and not just any beach mind you. We're talking about the one, the only, Cottesloe Beach in Western Australia. Yeah, kind of a big deal. Some of my flatmates and I have made Cottesloe our temporary beach hideaway. How can you say 'no' to a beach that's a 30 minute bus ride away? Answer: YOU CAN'T.
Surfing. One of the most stereotypical activities of Australia. I had to try it at least once while I was here. Well, the stars aligned and a surf board ended up in my lap just a few days ago. Excuse me, but try and imagine this story in the most dramatic way possible: So I gathered up my courage, brushed the sand off my back and walked bravely, with surf board at my side into the welcoming yet foreboding waters of the Indian Ocean. The pounding surf was unrelenting yet I knew I had to master this ancient art of wave riding. I searched myself for the strength to conquer the ocean as I paddled into the vast blue expanse. I turned my board toward the sand, my home, my safety, my friends. I was going to do it. Oh, I feel a wave! Another one! Ok, I'm gonna catch the next one! All my dreams! Coming true! I'm going to be a natural! Hmmmm...I seem to be drifting away from the beach. That's odd. Isn't it surfing when you get closer to the beach? Okay, maybe I should start paddling. Wow...not moving. What's that noise behind me? (This is when the world's biggest wave sucker punched me from behind) (Tumbling, tumbling, water in mouth/nose) Where the hell did that come from?!?! I was supposed to be a natural! All my dreams! Gone! Screw this, I'm gonna go lay on the beach.
That was my debut and retirement from the surfing circuit. I just don't think they could handle how real I was. I'm just too god dammed real.
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